this is what democracy looks like





After Berlin
I travelled to Copenhagen where the COP15 climate conference was taking place.
In front of the Folketshus on a freezing cold December evening I was greeted by a friend-of-a-friend David. He arrived with open arms and a big smile, and probably the wildest hair I've ever seen... It was like meeting an old friend. Soon after eating a delicious meal from the people's kitchen, I was put on a Christiania bike (it's a bicycle with a large "basket" in the front where you can sit) and given a ride all the way through windy dark Copenhagen night to Ragnhildsgade, a massive group of buildings where hundreds of activists were already sleeping in.

Carefully walking through the mattresses, legs and arms spread all over the floors, I made my way into the warmest room I could find and put my slightly smelly sleeping bag next to David's sort-of-a-bed. It was the warmest room of all but still I had to reach for my winter coat during the night.
The morning came with sunbeams striking through the tiny gray windows. A strange voice proclaimed cheerfully "What a lovely day for a riot!"
- But there was no riot.
Tens of thousands of people marching through the city streets, for six hours in total, hundreds of them arrested.
Police cars everywhere. NGO's proudly carrying their flags, samba bands banging their drums, children sitting on their parents' shoulders trying to get a better view over the chaotic mass of shouts, screams, smiles, uncertain moves and bursts of frustrated messages that no one had listened to.

Inside all this, so far the biggest demonstration I had taken part in, I was led by friendly hands and greeted with warm hugs.
There was Kyle, the crazy american, and Martin, a danish guy in a red overall, Candela the Spanish revolution queen and Sofie, the sweetest and most beautiful young woman, who welcomed me to stay at her place despite the fact that I was a complete stranger.
Tobias, the other Martin, Faith, Radu, Dominico, and a bunch of other names that I have already forgotten, but it doesn't really matter because what will not be forgotten is the impact these people had on me.

I have never experienced such solidarity. These guys were probably, without exaggerating, the friendliest, bravest people I've ever met.
They were deeply dedicated to fighting for justice, standing up for their ideals. Never with an aim to hurt, but to save and to change.
Not that my own lifestyle wouldn't be quite radical compared to the standards, but still I was amazed by how these guys were exactly the ones who were at the same time shown on the news and media as the aggressive hooligans who only want chaos and destruction.
Moreover, I was shocked by the fact that I might have been in Finland, reading the news and having my opinions based on the facts given from the media perspective. I might have made some different choices several years ago and ended up on the other side of the TV, just following the world through the screen, not knowing whom to trust and therefore accepting the mainstream image without a question.

What the TV screen showed was angry activists attacking the police, throwing stones at windows, disturbing the peace in the Democratic heaven of Denmark. What I saw was hundreds of cops, raising their arms and batons against anybody, groups of people silenced before they could speak, numbers of banderols torn before they could be read.
Now, if I may ask, what is the point of democracy if people then unsatisfied are forced to apply for permits to complain? We are given rules for how we can express our concerns, and even when following these rules, we are represented to the masses as a violent minority, just to make sure no more people would get off their couches, turn off their televisions and go out to see the world with their own eyes.
Citizens thinking too much, too critically, is dangerous to the leaders, that is easy to understand. What is not easy to understand, is how most of us think this is called freedom.

und jetzt... berlin





Here I am, sitting in Berlin, unable to explain what has happened or how I feel about it.
December has already taken over me, I'm starting to feel the need to hibernate over the winter or escape back to south.
I am here, observing the movements of strangers, thinking about time and distances and how relative everything is, how far your mind can travel within the smallest physical space available.
Yesterday was very warm, I was walking in Tiergarten, drawing trees, watching dogs and people running by.

One day I will tell you all the stories, one day.

Montenegro











Croatia














Bosnia-Herzegovina


Okay, so I have completely forgot about posting here.
My head is too confused to write, too much has happened.

Here are some photos instead.
.
Bosnia-Herzegovina



starting and stuff




I left from Helsinki on Saturday morning with a small chaos around, as usual. I managed to make it to the ferry terminal just on time, after going through some moments of thrill that included some confusion with tram lines (I still don't get the 3b/3T route, call me stupid if you like) and a drunken man nearly being sick on my lap.

The ferry ride was pretty much like how I had expected - lots of Finnish people reading a magazine that tells you where the get the cheapest vodka in Tallin. Did you know that there's
even some kind of an alcohol megastore right at the terminal? Well, I didn't and to be honest, would have been happier without ever getting this piece of information about the lovely travel
culture of my country.

Tallin was much more beautiful than I expected. Not that I had expected it to be ugly, but I was still surprised by the amount of inspiration it gave me. I want to go back one day, with a proper camera. What inspired me the most were the old soviet style apartment blocks at the edge of the city with lots of old people walking around them and sitting on the balconies smoking cigarettes.


The bus from Tallin to Riga was a luxury one - showing music videos from the early 90's and
serving free coffee. There was even a clean toilet, which they prodly presented at the beginning of the journey after all the general information about the trip. I had to write some of that introduction down, here are some of the highlights:
"And we have a toilet of course, which is the perfect place to refresh yourself in privacy"
"There is a special vip lounge at the end of the bus and for our special vip guests we offer a free bottle of water" (now that's what I call customer service!)
"If you like, you can move your seat further away from the person sitting next to you" (I found this one funny until I saw the man who was going to be my travel companion for the next six hours, he must have drank all the vodka in Estonia - should I feel sorry for the Finns who travelled to the beautiful capital to get pissed but were probably left without anything after this guy had been there?)

Finally, I got to Warsaw (through Riga, which I will just skip because nothing happend there. Well, I draw a lot of circles at the bus station.) It was sunday morning so I had been travelling for almost 24 hours. I managed to walk all the way to Graham's place who was going to be my host for the next couple of days. (This is worth mentioning, because I never manage to walk anywhere without getting lost, not even in Helsinki).

I enjoyed Warsaw - it was big, hectic and ugly but all of those things in a good way. In the first night we went to a big cemetery which was full of colourful candles for the All saint's night. It's a big thing in catholic countries and I felt very special being able to take part in the tradition. It felt like the whole city was there. Outside the graveyard there were lots of little stalls selling candles,
flowers, traditional snacks - and even balloons (I highly doubt that has anything to do with the
saints though).




On early Tuesday we started hitchhiking towards Slovakia. It didn't work. After about for hours of waiting in the cold and dark, stuck in Krakow, we ended up in a small local pub full of old Polish men drinking beer and gambling. A young lad got lucky and won almost two pintfulls of coins. He
seemed happy, the owner didn't.



The next day we managed to hitchhike to southern Poland and finally across the Slovak border - in a tractor! The little mountain villages were absolutely breathtaking.




Bratislava didn't feel good so I jumped in a train to Budapest - which did not take 12 hours, like the woman at the ticket office was claiming, so I ended up arriving in Budapest in the middle of the night without a place to stay. Luckily Ville was being an angel and texted me an addres to a small hostel near the train station. Completely exhausted and slightly scared by the empty streets and a walk through a dark tunnel, I was ringing the bell praying "please be open, please be open" - and a male voice answered, telling me to go to the highest floor, where an old man called Joseph was waiting for me with a big smile and a cup of tea. "Come here, I show you your room".
I got a comfortable bed in a small dorm for a bit over 4 euros. And shortly after me, a French guy arrived who turned out to be a photographer as well. We were looking at each other's websites in the middle of the night, totally forgetting the exhaustion and just getting exited about the fascinating world of visual arts, and he took my contact details and promised to spread them around. So maybe that was my reason to go to Budapest instead of Bratislava, who knows. Anyway, it's good to get connections.

Yesterday I arrived in Zagreb, hungry and tired, but some chestnuts and a couch safed me from all that. It's been raining but luckily the technical museum and the Croatian Talent show have been quite entertaining.
Tomorrow we are hitchhiking to an eco village somewhere in the Bosnian mountains. Wish me luck.