Showing posts with label hitchhiking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hitchhiking. Show all posts

a day without money

Morning: I wake up from my friend's lovely countryside house. The sun has already been up for several hours, even though it's only 9 o'clock. For this reason I love Finland.
For breakfast I eat rye bread (another reason to love Finland) with cucumber, tomatoes, margarine and tofu. All found from a dumpster behind the local grocery store. I also take some fruits with me as snacks.
We set off to a nearby village where Tero is studying glass blowing. In such a hot day feels absurd to step into the big hall full of open fires, the sweaty air burns your cheeks and bring tears into your eyes. The glasses are beautiful, though. They have made an installation out of "melted" glass bottles (that actually remind me of Dali's watches) and an old vacuum cleaner. Sadly I have no picture of it.

From Toijala we start hitchhiking towards Tampere, holding the good old "forward" sign. People are smiling at us. I am smiling even more, for it just feels so great to be on the road with Tittis again (even though it's only a short way this time), remembering all the crazy penniless worry-less summer days with tiny bags, old cassette player, broken shoes or no shoes at all... She is the one I hitched with to Amsterdam and back, my first longer hitchhike trip. No plans at all, no equipment, no money. We started hitching in Tampere, Finland with a sign saying "Amsterdam". We got there in three rides.

This time we are lucky again. A nice black-haired man drives us close to highway leading to Tampere, from where we immediately get a lift in a truck. The driver takes us close to the center. We walk through the city streets in the summer heat without shoes on, Tittis is pointing at everything she sees with total exitement. After the time spent in the forest she is going slightly crazy from all the people, cars, cafés and roller skates.

We spend a nice day going around the city, meeting our friend Marja and sitting in a park watching the ants and the clouds and everything in between.

At four o'clock I start walking towards the hitching spot again; I want to get to Jyväskylä for the evening, my brother's band is playing and it's been a while since I've last seen their gig. I stand with my thumb out for maybe 15 minutes, when a foreign van pulls over. The driver is middle-aged, wears dark glasses and looks slightly suspicious. I'm pushing back my prejudgements (hmm, which I might actually want to have while hitching) and get in. He agrees to take me all the way to Jyväskylä even though it's not really his destination. At some point, based on his stories, I am sure he's a drug dealer. But he isn't. It turns out that he's actually dealing diamonds with the Russian mafia. Or something like that. I don't ask about the details. He is making some questions about a possible boyfriend, but this time I am clever and start chatting about how we are actually planning to have a family soon and move into the countryside, and how much I'm looking forward becoming a mother... I hope this will distract him enough to forget any dirty thoughts he might have had about me. It works, and we spend the rest of the journey talking about our future plans. He tells me he would like to live in a wooden hut next to a lake one day. I tell him to go for it.
When we reach Jyväskylä, he says I shouldn't be hitching alone, and that I should be more careful with guys like himself. I agree, but I say that I'm really glad he was worth trusting. We say goodbye.


With mixed feelings and slightly shaky legs ( I did get a bit worried at the russian mafia part), I climb up a little hill in Jyväskylä to meet an old friend of mine. He is hanging out with some circus people who are practicing trapeze outside in the trees.
I realize it's time to go to the gig already, and to my pleasant surprise a stranger offers to lend me his bicycle. Gratefully I cycle to the youth center right on time to see the last three bands playing. My brother's band is the last one. It's strange to see my little brother on the stage banging the drums all sweaty and tattooed, still remembering so clearly the days when we shared a room, and how he used to dream about becoming a rockstar, practiced drumming with cardboard boxes before he got a real drum kit.


After the gig I realize how hungry I am. Where could I get food? It's already really late, not many shops are open (especially ones with some vegan food). But then it turns out that there's still some pasta left at the backstage, and the musicians have already left. I'm saving the rest of the food from going into the bin. New home in my empty stomach, there you go.
I go back to the park, where we make human pyramids, get to see a spontanoeus one-minute jane austen play, and talk about the world. People around us are drinking beer and throwing up on their shoes, this is the part of Finland I haven't missed.
When I get hungry again, I tell myself I will surely find some food sooner or later. No need to go shopping, as there is so much food waste in the world already. And just ten minutes later I'm eating a slice of a massive lovely Finnish sweet bun which was cruelly abandoned on a park lawn.

The walk home is long but lovely. I have shoes that I found on the streets in Barcelona; perfect size, perfect look.

Recently I read an article about food not bombs and dumpster diving. Why would anyone want to eat stuff that was in a dumpster, they asked.
Why would anyone want to buy, buy, buy, more, more and more stuff when the dumpsters are already full of edible goods still in their own packages?
I read 30% of all the food produced in the UK is going to waste. In the US it's even worse : 40-50%. I don't know what's the magic number in Scandinavia, but based on the dumpsters I have seen in Finland, and especially in Denmark, I would guess we are not much better.
And still we are talking about "a depression", finance crisis, threat of poverty, in our own country. There is not enough food in the world to feed all the population, it is being said. But it's not true - there is enough food, it is just being thrown away.

So now I have lived yet another day completely without money in an expensive welfare country. The idea does not come from wanting to save up, or because I couldn't afford to buy food or ride a car. This society is producing so much waste it could feed not only me but thousands of others. Most of the cars I see have three or four empty seats. I'm dumpster-diving fucking wine and roses and expensive cheese.
It simply doesn't make any sense to want everything new and shiny for as long as this kind of waste production keeps on going. So, until I find a better solution -


YOU SLEEP - I EAT YOUR RUBBISH!

barcelona

Thumbs out, stop the first driver while the midday heat is starting to tickle your skin
The man is from Morocco and his car has no windows
I have to keep my eyes closed, the wind is too strong on the highway,
and before I even realize, we are in Barcelona

Walking on the beach, the night restless and wild
Breathe the Sea

See the others further away drinking cheap wine from a plastic bottle
Nobody here but you can hear the buzz and hassle and dancing and excited screams from the previous summer and years before that

Run, the security and discomfort of shoes becoming just a distant memory
Footprints on the sand,
knowing that in seconds the sea will swallow them
But your handprints in the world, you hope they would last till tomorrow


starting and stuff




I left from Helsinki on Saturday morning with a small chaos around, as usual. I managed to make it to the ferry terminal just on time, after going through some moments of thrill that included some confusion with tram lines (I still don't get the 3b/3T route, call me stupid if you like) and a drunken man nearly being sick on my lap.

The ferry ride was pretty much like how I had expected - lots of Finnish people reading a magazine that tells you where the get the cheapest vodka in Tallin. Did you know that there's
even some kind of an alcohol megastore right at the terminal? Well, I didn't and to be honest, would have been happier without ever getting this piece of information about the lovely travel
culture of my country.

Tallin was much more beautiful than I expected. Not that I had expected it to be ugly, but I was still surprised by the amount of inspiration it gave me. I want to go back one day, with a proper camera. What inspired me the most were the old soviet style apartment blocks at the edge of the city with lots of old people walking around them and sitting on the balconies smoking cigarettes.


The bus from Tallin to Riga was a luxury one - showing music videos from the early 90's and
serving free coffee. There was even a clean toilet, which they prodly presented at the beginning of the journey after all the general information about the trip. I had to write some of that introduction down, here are some of the highlights:
"And we have a toilet of course, which is the perfect place to refresh yourself in privacy"
"There is a special vip lounge at the end of the bus and for our special vip guests we offer a free bottle of water" (now that's what I call customer service!)
"If you like, you can move your seat further away from the person sitting next to you" (I found this one funny until I saw the man who was going to be my travel companion for the next six hours, he must have drank all the vodka in Estonia - should I feel sorry for the Finns who travelled to the beautiful capital to get pissed but were probably left without anything after this guy had been there?)

Finally, I got to Warsaw (through Riga, which I will just skip because nothing happend there. Well, I draw a lot of circles at the bus station.) It was sunday morning so I had been travelling for almost 24 hours. I managed to walk all the way to Graham's place who was going to be my host for the next couple of days. (This is worth mentioning, because I never manage to walk anywhere without getting lost, not even in Helsinki).

I enjoyed Warsaw - it was big, hectic and ugly but all of those things in a good way. In the first night we went to a big cemetery which was full of colourful candles for the All saint's night. It's a big thing in catholic countries and I felt very special being able to take part in the tradition. It felt like the whole city was there. Outside the graveyard there were lots of little stalls selling candles,
flowers, traditional snacks - and even balloons (I highly doubt that has anything to do with the
saints though).




On early Tuesday we started hitchhiking towards Slovakia. It didn't work. After about for hours of waiting in the cold and dark, stuck in Krakow, we ended up in a small local pub full of old Polish men drinking beer and gambling. A young lad got lucky and won almost two pintfulls of coins. He
seemed happy, the owner didn't.



The next day we managed to hitchhike to southern Poland and finally across the Slovak border - in a tractor! The little mountain villages were absolutely breathtaking.




Bratislava didn't feel good so I jumped in a train to Budapest - which did not take 12 hours, like the woman at the ticket office was claiming, so I ended up arriving in Budapest in the middle of the night without a place to stay. Luckily Ville was being an angel and texted me an addres to a small hostel near the train station. Completely exhausted and slightly scared by the empty streets and a walk through a dark tunnel, I was ringing the bell praying "please be open, please be open" - and a male voice answered, telling me to go to the highest floor, where an old man called Joseph was waiting for me with a big smile and a cup of tea. "Come here, I show you your room".
I got a comfortable bed in a small dorm for a bit over 4 euros. And shortly after me, a French guy arrived who turned out to be a photographer as well. We were looking at each other's websites in the middle of the night, totally forgetting the exhaustion and just getting exited about the fascinating world of visual arts, and he took my contact details and promised to spread them around. So maybe that was my reason to go to Budapest instead of Bratislava, who knows. Anyway, it's good to get connections.

Yesterday I arrived in Zagreb, hungry and tired, but some chestnuts and a couch safed me from all that. It's been raining but luckily the technical museum and the Croatian Talent show have been quite entertaining.
Tomorrow we are hitchhiking to an eco village somewhere in the Bosnian mountains. Wish me luck.